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OpdotEd - Around the World of Wine by André Drobotoff

Bulgaria 29 May 00, vol. 1. no. 12

 

Bulgaria

Bulgarian wines began to appear in Great Britain at theearly eighties, where they created a sensation among connoisseurs. Rich and unctuous, with a abundance of aromas of blackcurrant, raised in the oak and having spent some years in bottles, they met consumer's expectations. Ten  years later, these wines based on Cabernet and Merlot continue to meet consumer expectation.
The Bulgarian viticulture goes back only to the thirties, where Soviet Union decided to implement a big program of planting so as to produce wines for the USSR.   The modern Bulgarian vineyard, planted on fertile and flat soils was born. Hereafter, Bulgaria succeeded to obtain in sufficient quantity international grape varieties that were going to allow it to gain a great renown on the export markets.

In red, the grape variey mostly used is Cabernet-Sauvignon. Merlot, notably when it originates from Stambovolo can appear interesting. The Gamza expresses a vigorous fruity  when it is young and acquires by aging a great wealth. A very robust Mavrud,  is behind wines with aromas of plum and a lot of character. The indigenous grape variety  is Pamid and the wines seem mediocre. Shiroka Melnishka Losa is, on the other hand, far more interesting. Generally called "Melnik", it gives fruity and powerful wines that age well in the oak.
In white, the most widespread grape variety is Rkatsiteli, but  Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc, Sauvignon, Riesling, Muscat Ottonel and Aligote are equally planted in abundance. Among local white vines, Dimiat and Red Misket are dominant.

The "Wine Law" was approved by the Bulgarian National Assembly in July 1978 and it is currently under review. The law divided all wine produced in the country into three categories: 

            A) Standard Quality  

            B) High Quality  

            C) Special (comprising dessert and fortified wines)

The "High Quality" category is divided into three sub-groups:

            a) Wines without declared origin but of declared variety or brand name

            b) Wines of declared geographical origin

            c) Wines of a 'Controliran Region'

"Controliran Region" wines have distinct characters and features based on the specific natural conditions and production traditions of the particular region. The following conditions must be respected:

    1) The grapes for the wine have to originate from a defined geographical micro-region with specific and uniform soil and climatic conditions.

    2) The wines must be produced from grape varieties approved for the region.

    3) Both viticulture and vinification must adhere to strict rules.

    4) The levels of alcohol, acidity and sugar must figure within strict boundaries.

The wines are organoleptically and chemically tested. Wines from "Controliran Regions" must be tasted by the National Tasting Committee, which is appointed by the Minister of Agriculture, before being awarded Controliran status. Controliran wines can be called "Reserve" if the vintage is superior to average and the wine has been aged in oak barrels for at least three years for white and four for red.

The oriental region is devoted, for the essential, to the white wine. In the vicinity of Sumen, great wineries of Novi Pazar, Preslav (Preslav Winery) and Khan Krum are operating. The winery of Khan Krum is considered   for its wine of Chardonnay. In the northern area of the coast of the Black Sea, the most considered   wine is the Chardonnay from Varna.

In the northern region, red and white wines are produced in almost equivalent volumes, but it is the red wines that are the genuine jewels. Suhindol (Lovico Suhindol), known for its Cabernet-Sauvignon, equally excellent product wines from Merlot and Gamza. In the vicinities near Svishtov (Vinprom-Svishtov), not far of the Romania frontier, produce equally a good Cabernet.

Cabernet-Sauvignon plays also an important part  to the south of Balkans. It is vinificated alone, or added with Merlot or Mavrud. Plovdiv is good, but in the vicinity of Asenovgrad, the amateur will taste an Cabernet-Sauvignon again more delectable.
On hills of Sliven, Oryahovica and Stara Zagora, neighbors of the region under Balkans, Cabernet-Sauvignon gives equally excellent results. To the south, hillsides of Stambolovo can offer wines  Merlot of great class, with the "Reserve" that counts among best Bulgarian wines. Merlot and Cabernet-Sauvignon of Sakar deserve to be mentioned.

The region of the Southwest is the warmtest of the country. The continental climate is  tempered by hot air mass rising from the valley of Struma. The atmosphere there is clearly Mediterranean, but the altitude prevents the middle temperature to be too hot for the vine. Here reigns Melnik, a grape variety that prospers on clayey and sandy soils  near Damianitza and Harsovo. The other important grape varieties of the region are Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Rkatsiteli and Muscat Ottonel. More to the north, wineries of Kjustendil produce, in small quantity, wines with Rkatsiteli, Pamid and Cabernet-Sauvignon.

To know more about Bulgarian wines, visit the site : The Bulgarian Wine Guild.

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