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Torula News

a news service for Cognac and the region  edited by M. Andrew

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Cognac & the region Headlines from Torula News

Date

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11 July Irish Kiss, Cognac and Walter O'
10 July Cognac collectors items
09 July Edito and Cognac Cigar 
29 Jun All roads lead to Courvoisier
28 Jun Sommeliers in short supply
27 Jun Alcohol consumption trends
26 Jun US market helps Rémy Martin
25 Jun Cognac Esteve wins again
22 Jun Cognac in RVF
21 Jun Cognac tasting in Paris
20 Jun Luxury focus at Hennessy
19 Jun A de Fussingy does it again
18 Jun Red flows in the fjords II
15 Jun Tax-Free Asia Pacific
14 Jun Philippe Moreau
13 Jun Elegance for summer
12 Jun Forgeries in Vietnam
11 Jun Red flows in the fjords
8 June Cognac Forum
7 June What's in an URL name?

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Drinks and beverages industry news. Courtesy of moreover.com

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The 37th World Congress of the World Federation of the Bacchic Fraternities (F.I.C.B.) will be hosted by the Brotherhood of Franc-Pineau, 4 - 9/05/00 in the Cognac region. F.I.C.B logo on the right.
27/04/00 Fifth generation Cognac and Pineau des Charentes (Blanc and Rosé) producing family Vallet manages its 55 hectares property (of mostly Ugni Blanc grapes) at the Château Montifaud in the Petite Champagne cru. They produce some 100000 bottles a year (80% Cognac, 20% Pineau). They export over 80% of their Cognac bottling to USA, Canada, Europe, Japan, Taiwan, Malaysia and Singapore. In addition to VS, VSOP, Napoléon and XO they also offer Vintages (Millèssime) from 1970, 1973, 1975, 1979 and each year from 1983. Among their rare Cognacs, they offer Héritage Louis Vallet from 1904, Cognac Cigar 46% vol. and Réserve Special Michel Vallet. The last 2 products are exclusively sold in the USA market. A well run property that is worthwhile to visit, on the road between Cognac and Pons, in Jarnac-Champagne.
26/04/00 Rixendis' Cognac Tasting Society opens today their annual tastings at the Cognac D. du Veron (Borderies cru).
25/04/00 Following last year's success of Camus Neon in the UK market, Cognac Prunier registers significant sales gains for their newly re-packaged  Prunier De Luxe. Following recent upbeat results from Hennessy and Rémy Martin (see our item dated 19/04/00), some in the Cognac industry begin to believe that the worst of the crisis is over. Torula News, although welcomes positive results, believes that the Cognac crisis is far from over. The main work, however, is in the region. It begins with changing BNIC, re-organizing industry structure, improving quality and uniformity of product presentation. It definitely does not begins with BNIC teaching marketing to JAAV (Young Viticulteurs Association) as seen recently in the region. The young members of JAAV may not remember this simple fact that the same BNIC people presided over Cognac decline during the last 10 years which resulted in a 50% market share loss.
20/04/00 During a recent FIJEV (International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers) meeting in Brussels, Torula News had a pleasure to meet and discuss Cognac state of affairs with Gert von Paczensky who wrote the best book on Cognac to date. The book, written in 1986, is still selling well and the author still counts A.E. Dor Cognacs among his favorites.
19/04/00 LVMH, a parent of Cognac Hennesy, reported 40% increase in revenue in their first quarter with Hennessy registering 16% increase primarily due to VSOP and XO sales in South East Asia. Rémy Cointreau, parent of Cognac Rémy Martin, has reported 22.4% revenue increase for the year ending March 00. Cognac business registered 31% growth in volume and 28% in revenue with substantial growth registered in the 4th quarter due to sales of Rémy Red among other new products. But the shares are hovering in the €19-22 range on the CAC-40 market in Paris expressing investors hesitation. (www.firstinvest.com)
18/04/00

Last Tuesday, Cognac Forum organized by regional newspaper Sud Ouest took place in Cognac. Well organized, well attended, well intentioned, it’s content, however, was a repeat of much the same gripes from viticulteurs (‘we want contracts’, ‘there is too much production, but it is not me it is him’), BNIC defensiveness (‘we do what you tell us’) and so on. There were not a single new idea, not a single proposal offered. New openness and public invitation to find a solution from Hennessy, Camus and L&L was one of the few positive aspects of the Forum. Thibault Le Carpentier from Obsand, a consulting firm, who did a recent survey on the French spirits market, noted a key finding. It takes about 40 seconds to buy whisky but over 3 minutes to buy Cognac in the supermarkets. No one stood up and proposed new rules and regulations to change present labeling guidelines. When Gilbert Scatena, barman at the Royal Monceau in Paris, suggested that grapes are way of promoting Cognac, from aperitif to wine to digestive, the audience had no reaction. And yet, Cognac is a product of wine as we often tell, here. Line Guillon, young viticultrice from Segonzac, held onto ideas and hopes that keep the industry in trouble; sell in France, don’t change much, we do our thing, my neighbor does his. Jean-Paul Lafragette of L&L, Christophe Navarre of Hennessy and Cyril Camus of Camus all spoke the same language of market concerns, of brand selling and welcoming competition. Clear-cut message delivered professionally by all 3. Yves Dubiny, viticulteur and member of one of the many unions in the region, made 2 important points, which were lost on the audience. Decision-making in the region is at the speed of aging Cognac, which is very slow. Pushing viticulteurs to change their properties into winemaking businesses may work but a skill of vigneron is needed. It is a different skill and re-training is required. Can the government help to provide funds? Should the viticulteurs look for an entirely different profession? Representing Ministry of Agriculture, Jacques Berthomeau repeated his old message: “I’m here to listen, to guide but not make decision for you. You must decide, you must unite before you ask government for help. Get behind AOC concept. Your constant whining will make government to loose its patience.”  Spoken like a teacher to a stubborn 6 year old. But the audience was really preoccupied with petty details; grand standing by ex-Rémy Martin employee and even the most vocal but least constructive MODEF union could only heckle and cry for access to ‘contract market’. Christian Vignaud of FSVC union pleaded with the audience: ”Stop waiting for your neighbor, do something”. It was a very appropriate observation. It was surprising not to see François Mery, President of JAAV (Young Viticulters Association) at the podium. Same applies to Pascal Millassau, President of the Distillers Association (Bouillleurs du Cru), too. He was in the audience but did not participated in the discussion. Both represent a significant viticulteur constituency. And finally, the role and performance of Bernard Guionnet, first viticulteur and distillator who was elected President of BNIC only 16 months ago. It was not his best meeting. Attacked for every sin in the industry, for BNIC non-performance over many years and even for his personal business, Bernard Guionnet was on the defensive from the start. An intelligent and experienced man came to this meeting acting like he is a part of the BNIC bureaucracy; no plan, no agenda only condescending defense. It was a wasted opportunity to set the record and BNIC agenda straight.

The Sud Ouest moderator Alain Ribet closed the session with a challenge: “Who will call whom, tomorrow?” Bernard Guionnet responded: “We are meeting regularly, anyway.” In the meantime, the consumer is confused, the quality is falling, industry structure is archaic, over production continues and the sales are barely holding steady. With no concrete plans to decide on, the industry keeps on talking hidden by the myriad of   ineffective BNIC committees.

17/04/00 Traveling through Belgium and Luxembourg in search of Cognac and Pineau des Charentes, we noticed no advertising and no promotions while other spirits were visible and aggressive in their ads led by Martini Fiero. In the largest supermarket chain, GB, in Belgium there were plenty of VS, VSOP and Pineau products from the main merchants. In small stores and caves, both products were practically invisible. One store stood out above it all, however. de Cognatheek in Antwerp, a father and son business entirely committed to Cognac and Pineau. Products from over 50 Cognac producers and some 40 Pineaux are well displayed in this modern store in the heart of Antwerp's antique shops district. Much of the product comes from members of Cave Particulières association but Daniel Bouju products were there as well. The most important element in their sales is their knowledge of products and producers. No wonder that their customers come from Germany, UK, Holland and, of course, Belgium. They also begin selling to local restaurants. Products from Christian Landreau, Giboin, Boutinet, Thorin are among the best selling ones. A very similar situation exists in Luxembourg where Alima's Wine, Spirits and Cigars store has a full range of Hennessy, Godet, Davidoff, Léopold Gourmel, Gautier, Hine, Martell, Courvoisier, Bisquit (no Cohiba), Rémy Martin (including their Pineau) and Frapin (only VSOP). Here, when we asked which products sell most an instant response was: "Léopold Gourmel, of course". Restaurants and better bars, in both countries, are poorly stocked with Cognac citing frequently industry indifference and lack of knowledge of Cognac among consumers.
15/04/00 Ragnaud-Sabourin, de Challygnac, Bernard Boutinet, Goursaud, Château Guynot, Domaine du Bel Ange, Jacques Estève, Louis Royer, Bisquit, Prince de Polignac, Malesan XO from William Peters (Malesan Bordeaux & Chateaux) and the tireless Christian Thomas from Château de Beaulon were at the Mondial 2000 in Brussels. V.ve Pasquinet and Paul Pesquier products from Euronégoce in Julliac-le-Coq made their international debut there as well. At the Pernod-Ricard (parent of Cognac Bisquit) stand there was a single bottle of their Cognac Cohiba; to look at it but not for tasting. Information had to be copied as no brochures were available either. At the Louis Royer importer stand there was no Single Cru Distillery products; explanation offered was that the producer did not send it. What a way to sell at the Trade Only exhibition! Other producers worked hard and were very well prepared. (See related item below)
15/04/00 Mondial 2000 of Wine and Spirits was held recently in Brussels. It was the 11th exhibition which is the biggest such event in Benelux. An exclusive (by ACNielsen) study of wine markets in 8 European countries  was released by the organizers highlighting the following trends: number of retail outlets dropped by 14.1% reflecting trend towards large shopping centers and hypermarkets; an average retail outlet in the 8 countries covers 813 inhabitants with the Netherlands having highest ratio (1 outlet for every 2,510 inhabitants) and Ireland lowest at 1outlet per 403 inhabitants. Biggest increase in volume sold in 1999 was in Ireland (23.7%), Belgium (17.5%), Netherlands (13.8%) and UK (12.3%). France, a country not included in this survey recorded a 1.4% drop in wine consumption according to Onivins. The increase in value was at 6.6%. Relating volume and value ratio, the study concludes a clear growth in value. This, the study says, is a result of consumers "trading up" and buying more expensive wines. Other highlights were: purchases of wine direct from the producer or property are infrequent (tourists buy more than locals), older consumers choose products based on reputation and younger ones try more "fashionable" ones in the restaurants. Innovation and value for money are likely selling points for younger consumers. The key conclusion of this survey is that the consumer is better informed: "wine knowledge is no longer the privilege of the few". As Cognac is a product of wine, much of this survey can be applied to it. So it was with considerable regret that we found no one from BNIC (The Cognac Association) or in Brussels. They were, we suspect, still recovering from the Thriller Film Festival. And yet, Cognac and Pineau des Charentes producers who were in Brussels would have benefited from their industry association presence. See ralated item above. (Survey by ACNielsen, Madrid; Torula News)
14/04/00 Sébastien Lacroix has succeeded Max Dupuy in the position of Director of the BNIA (The Armagnac Association). At the age of 28 it is a remarkable story in itself for French viticulture, Gers and Armagnac region. Will Cognac region be next? Congratulations, Sébastien! (VSB 10/04/00, Torula News)
13/04/00 Forbes Global, a worldwide publication of Forbes Magazine, in the 17 April 2000 issue carries an article titled "Cognac's unsung rival". It is about Calvados, an apple orchard in a bottle. Quoting several sources, from Erich Maria Remarque, A.J. Liebling to Christian Drouin, the author builds the case for Calvados. She admits that the image of Calvados suffers greatly when compared with its grape-derived cousins from farther south - Cognac and Armagnac. But she builds it well through out the article, to the point you want to go and taste it. "There are 12,000 fonctionnaires in France. and that's 11,000 too many" Bernard LaBey, maker of Calvados is quoted. The price of a quality Calvados is climbing where a Pays d'Auge product moved from $400 to $1200 in 4 years. Will we see the same movement in the Cognac region?. (Forbes Global 17/04/00)
12/04/00 The 5th Pineau des Charentes Competition, a part of IREXPO 2000, was held recently at IREO. In the Pineau Blanc category top 3 products were from Michel Baron, Jean-Pierre Lambert and Doussoux-Baillif. In the Pineau Rosé category, the top 3 came from S. Bourreau, Brard-Blanchard and Bertrand. In the Pineau Vieux Blanc, top products were from Michel Baron, Jean-Pierre Lambert and Seguin. The top selection in the Pineau Vieux Rosé was from Jean-Pierre Grataud and in the Pineau Très Vieux Blanc from Distillerie Merlet. For producers contact click here.
11/04/00 After years of boycotting the Cognac Thriller Film Festival (What it has to do with the Cognac industry?, Does it help promoting Cognac, the product?), Torula News send a correspondent to attend its 18th edition held in the City of Cognac recently. He filed the following story: "Torn between interest in Cognac and in the movies, it was a tough assignment. As the movies go, the Festival was a success (Oliver Stone, Brian de Palma, Bill Pullman and many French actors). Its organization under the steady hand of Claire Cotes (a perfect candidate for the Mayor of Cognac?), was excellent. Though some local shopkeepers were clearly disappointed with the Festival - 'the business is down as the locals avoid shopping, the visitors come to drink, see the movies but don't shop'. In a quick survey of the hotel rooms availability; there were plenty available on Thursday and Friday but all were sold out on Saturday. A telling sign. Shops and bars in the center of town displayed and served many Cognac products from Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Martell, Courvoisier and Meukow. However, a clever placement of Cognac Frapin products in the shop windows along the main shopping street won the day. On Thursday, the Festival opening day, the streets and the bars were deserted. On Friday, at around 10pm there was a sprinkle of customers in the main bars in the center of town. When we dropped in at at one French movie showing, there was less than 50 people in the audience. So, we were full of anticipation for Saturday night. There were more people in the bars, on the streets, in the restaurants and in the movies. Nevertheless, the numbers were surprisingly low. We did a dinner across from the movie house, the movie (Paul Newman in "Where the money is") and 4 bars between 19:30 and midnight. Sadly, when we asked for Cognac after dinner, they offered VS or VSOP and when we asked for XO, the man still insisted that it was VSOP. The bottle said XO Grande Fine Champagne. If the Film Festival benefits the City, though there was no clear evidence of it, that is the City business. The Festival, which is  financed by the Cognac industry (from F3.7 million, F11 million to F25 million, it depends who you are talking too),  the City and regional governments, offers no real benefit to the industry. The BNIC contributes not only the industry cash but its employees and other resources which should be used in promoting Cognac, in France and abroad. We called on Philippe Treutenaeure, who represents the   Cognac industry as a President of the BNIC Communication Committee. He declined to be interviewed. A telling sign, as well. There is always a hope that Hollywood, Barandovo or Pinewood would at least place Cognac in the films they are making. But as we have seen in the past, that is not a case. Does Claudia Cardinale, last year's guest, promotes Cognac? Will Oliver Stone, who jokingly says he likes 2 drugs: "cocaine and Cognac", promote the products? Of course, not. And the winner was a film fantasy titled 'Not the Cognac industry'. (For the Festival details see www.festival.cognac.fr)".
10/04/00 After tasting excellent top of the range products from Cognac Paul Beau (Hors d'Age Vieille Grande Champagne, Vieille Reserve and Borderies Extra Vieille), we had an opportunity to try their VSOP recently. It has a nutty character, hint of spice, is long. Men's Cognac from Grande Champagne that scored 8 out of 10. Good starter for their product line. (for more check item on 03/04/00)
05/04/00 In a far ranging interview with Olivier Bonnefon of the regional newspaper Sud-Ouest, Paul Jean Giraud, President of the French Private Cellars of Charentes (Cave Particulières), producers of Cognac, Pineau des Charentes and Vins de Pays, has set out a very ambitious program for the group; increase in membership, recognition of quality, lobbying for the change of archaic rules (i.e. Cognac age identification on the labels), providing professional service for its members. The key point of the interview was his comment on the need for better promotion and presentation of the products. (Sud-Ouest30/03/00)
04/04/00 Fifty strong members of the Cognac Cigar Club, which began late last year, have prepared an impressive program for year 2000; 17 April Cognac Drouet at Le Coq d'Or, 22 May Courvoisier at Hotel Alienor, 26 June Davidoff at Château Bagnolet and Tourny, Gautier, Hine later this year. The Club President Gérard Haustrade of La Civette says: " Cigars are what the club is all about but Cognac goes well with them."
03/04/00 The English investment group Duke Street Capital is poised to take a controlling interest in Marie Brizard and Roger International company, parent of Cognac Gautier. Following a recent KPC purchase of Cognac Hardy there is a continuing talk of more foreign investors looking to take over Cognac companies and even producing properties. (Sud-Ouest01/04/00,Torula News)
03/04/00 While visiting the 14th Grande Champagne Fair in Segonzac, Torula News always finds an opportunity to taste new or re-taste different Cognacs or other regional products. This year's new find was Jacques Denis' Grande Champagne Extra (green label) which showed a nice rancio, well balanced aromas, a good length and was surprisingly dry. At 42% volume, we scored it 8 out of 10. We could not resist to re-try our old perennial favorites from Paul BeauBorderies Extra Vieille which this time had a strength of 46% volume, it was even better than last time we tasted it. At 10 out of 10, it is the best Borderies eaux-de-vie around. Their Hors d'Age Vieille Grande Champagne was as good as ever and justified our last year's rating of 9 out of 10. A new for us was Paul Beau Grande Champagne Vieille Reserve. The nose is dominated by prunes, it is well balanced with strongly acentuated rancio, complex and long Cognac. A 8 out of 10. Henri Geffard Vieille Reserve Cognac has strong hints of spice, licorice, light rancio, it is round and well balanced and scored 6 out of 10. During the lunch at the Fair, we had a chance to enjoy 1999 Colombard white Vin de Pays Charentais from a local producer Bernard Georgeon. It was excellent. But the real winner at the Fair was a Vin de Pays Charentais from J. Michel Renoux. This white wine, light and aromatic, is made from Ugni Blanc grapes. The same grapes used in making eaux-de-vie for Cognacs. A clear connection that Cognac is a product of wine.
03/04/00 From the ashes of the old Pays du Cognac magazine, a new monthly Terres de Cognac has been launched under the editorship of Gérard Seguin. It is all about viticulture in the region of Cognac. A noble attempt but will they raise real issues of the industry; structure, taxation, product quality and the re-structuring of the BNIC, for example. We wait and see.
02/04/00 The results of the 4th Annual Cognac Tasting in Segonzac on 1 April 2000 are: For  25-50 years old eaux-de-vie: 1. Octave Bredon 1950,  2. Jean Fort 1951, 3. Henri Geffard 1975. In the commercial XO Grande Champagne category the winners were: 1. Pierre Serplet Hors d'Age, 2. Octave Bredon Ancestrale, 3. Simone Marcadier XO.
01/04/00 In an unofficial survey conducted in the Cognac region, Torula News found that the fastest selling Cognac in the supermarkets is Cognac *** from Distillerie des Moisan sold as low as F53.80. Is this the begining of a price war in the region?
01/04/00 The 4th Annual Cognac Tasting at the 14th the Grande Champagne Fair (1-2/04/00) in Segonzac comprised of 2 blind tastings; 25 to 50 years old eaux-de-vie for which there were 25 samples to taste. The 2nd tasting, organized by Jacky Ferrand of BNIC, involved commercially available, bottled XO Grande Champagne products. It had 15 entries. There was distinctly international flavor among the 19 tasters; Nicholas Faith, a British writer and journalist at the Financial Times, Simon Palmer, a New Zealander, Torula News correspondent from the USA, and several local tasters; Patrick Brillet, Francis Audemard, Mrs. Martini. There were also viticulteurs from the region and employees of Rémy Martin, Martell, Louis Royer and Hine. Under the guidance of Berrnard Moreau, the tasting was efficient and the hospitality was appreciated by all. In the 25-50 years old category, a group of 3 eaux-de-vie was distinctly superior from the rest. The range of scores was very close among them with the top 2 clear winners. In the commercial XO Grande Champagne tasting,  5  products scored highest ratings but the choices among the tasters were far more apart. Still, the winners were by far best samples tasted. In the opinion of this taster, the overall quality of 25-50 years old eaux-de-vie was above average. Among  the XO Grande Champagne samples there were some distinct embarrassments and the overall quality was average. The top 3 products in each category were of superior quality. The results will be released at the Fair closing, on Sunday, April 2nd.

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