Torula News October 1999

28/10/99	The emotions run high in the Cognac region after Ivan Drapeau's (of Charente Libre), interview-expose with Jacques Berthommeau, mediator of the French Ministry of Agriculture. In the nutshell, Jacques Berthommeau said what many progressive persons have talked in private in the region. The Cognac industry received a 3 months ultimatum to puts its house in order; no more philosophy, no empty or vitriolic words, no more searching for government handouts, no more searching for scapegoats. Time has come for unity and action. Adapt a realistic plan for diversification, accept free market concept and re-structure the industry accordingly, were the key elements in this wide-ranging interview. Key and important observations from Jacques Berthommeau are: vineyard is a factory that produces grape juice, use 10° alcohol level for wine, get the plan in place after consultation with the industry including the public, BNIC is a dinosaur dating back to Vichy government days and its role and mission are not clearly identified and not in tune with the changes in the market place, since the unity in the Cognac industry does not exist time has come to unite. And as for the future, Jacques Berthommeau is pessimistically active (we are not sure what he means by it) but singles out Bernard Guionnet, Bernard Bégaud. Chrisophe Navarre and Dominique Hédiard-Dubreuil as personalities whose ideas have most chance to bring change to the Cognac industry. Shocking as it might be, those tough but correct words are many months late, nevertheless they are welcomed as they clearly summarize the chaos within the industry. At the same time, it should be noted that the Ministry of Agriculture is not without its faults like the recent delays on publishing 1999 production figures. We take our hats off to Bernard Guionnet, President of BNIC and to Christian Vignaud, leader of the largest union of viticulteurs who have publicly accepted Jacques Berthommeau comments. But the majority of viticulteurs that the Torula News talked to are in a state of shock as they have not yet comprehended what has happened. They are taking a very defensive and naive position which, as we know from the past, has, in part, created the current crisis. With a sense irony, we note the recent announcement of the new BNIC budget of F63 million (based on a complex and unequal "cotisation" formula - how about a single F15/ hectoliter alcohol pure charge for all) with F6 million allocated to promote Cognac in France. A quick suggestion re: "cotisation" which is a basis for BNIC budget: for each 2% of world wide spirits market share Cognac gains, the charge goes up by F1. If there is a loss, the charge goes down by F1. The market is abroad and it needs to be defended! Yes, promote in France but not to the detriment of foreign markets which comprise of some 95-97% of the Cognac markets. The Communication Committee of BNIC works in a vacuum or simply lack the basic understanding of the Cognac (spirits) market world wide. They should study Jacques Berthommeau words carefully. We wrote several times of the need to change BNIC, we even spelled out some simple steps of change; fewer people, outsourcing of certain services, create a clear mission with objectives to be reviewed by an independent body each year. Simply said; make a BNIC a business (Federation, Association type) responsible for quality and promotion of Cognac. Cut on the rules and regulations (probably dating back to Vichy times), collect less statistics or collect them smartly. And make BNIC open to the public, make the information freely available. What's the point of having extranet with all sorts of information that are not available to the public? And a final word about people within BNIC; there is a group of hard working and dedicated people (i.e. Internet group, communication department) but without clear objectives and a mission statement, their work is not appreciated.
28/10/99	Cognac Cigar Club under the presidency of Gerard Heustraete (owner of boutique La Civette, across from Cognac Martell) began its monthly meetings at the Coq d'Or restaurant in Cognac.
27/10/99	Halloween is in full swing in the Cognac region with Hennessy and Rémy Martin boutiques, among many producers, are full of witchcraft, secret brews and the Halloween spirit. Among special Halloween concoctions, the Elixir Hennessy PureWhite seems a sure winner.
27/10/99	The winners of the Prix Design Y2K (An 2000) du Cognac sponsored by Torula News in association with Hotel Crillon, Sandmark, Restaurant La Cagouille, Atlanpack and the BNIC are: 1st prize: Cognac Gautier Fine Champagne Réserve Célèbre 2000 Ans de Découvertes 2nd prize: Famille Vallein Tercinier Le Cognac du Millenaire Parfums du XXème Siècle 3rd prize: Cognac Otard V.S.O.P. 1000 ans d’Histoire au Château de Cognac The 5 member jury received 25 entries from 16 producers, all of the highest quality. The winners will receive their prizes on 5 November at the Hotel Crillon in Paris followed by the Winners dinner hosted by the Restaurant La Cagouille in Paris. Full analysis of the competition will be available next week on this web site.
26/10/99	First there were 3 bidders, now there are 2 in the ongoing saga of Cognac A. Hardy. Like the aging of Hardy Perfection, the time seems to not matter to courts, to the bidders. The next court decision is scheduled for 8 November. The question at this time to be raised: "Who will compensate A. Hardy for the lost business?" The judges at the Tribunal de Commerce in Cognac whose ineptitude and politicking caused this situation, bidders who took time to go through the company books and warehouses and then when faced with the real courts decision dropped out of the bidding? Luckily, the orders are coming in and Cognac A. Hardy is here stay which is a credit to its importers, customers and also to its employees.
25/10/99	"What a blast!" was the commonly heard cry of New Yorkers attending Claire Coates (BNIC)' "The Art of the Cognac Cocktail" party held at Lot 61 in New York. The building is a renovated garage in the most far-reaching corner of Chelsea. Lot 61 is literally the New York City Zoning Resolution number of that piece of real estate. Some 100+ in attendance representing a mix of age groups from 20 something to 60+, from liquor store owners to executives. It was very ethnically diversified group reflecting today' consumer from New York. Lots of freelance journalists and a photographer from Food & Wine. The talk among the "cognac educated" participants was that it seemed a "sacrilege to mix cognac with orange juice". The younger crowd didn't seem to mind, the bar was flowing. A successful party by all standards, with 25 different drinks to choose from. Not everyone liked all of the cocktails, of course. "It was horrible." said Helmut Koeing, from the Independent, referring to Cognac Ritz Cocktail. He noted "that because the Japanese markets are falling the producers need to diversify. So now they, unfortunately, have to resort to promote mixing cognac with things like soda and juice. It doesn't make sense to mix such an expensive drink with stuff so cheap". But the younger crowd was into Cognac & Orange Juice and other cocktails without any hesitation. Gloria Roma of the Columbia News Service said: "Great party, great way to revitalize consumption of Cognac by showing new ways of consumption". In the more formal few minutes of the party, Claire Coates gave a thank you speech for coming, gave history about herself, Cognac producing, including distillation and explained that the only Cognac that they mixed with, was VS and *****. The high end cognac like XO is meant to be drank as is and "its important to share." Then she introduced the author of the book "The Art of the Cocktail Party", Leslie Brenner. But the crowd was hanging at the bar paying more attention to 25 different Cognac Cocktails. The food was an exotic menu of beef wonton's, egg rolls, figs wrapped in ham, spicy shrimp, buffalo mozzarella wrapped with egg plant, etc. Cognacs on the menu were: Martell Cordon Bleu, Fillioux 2000, H. Mounier, Hardy VSOP. The bar used Hennessy VS & Rémy Martin VS for all their mixing. The only promotional material was put out by Courvoisier. Incidentally, we did see any Courvoisier products. All in all, a good evening for Cognac. Claire Coates and Sopexa** people led by Veronica O'Connor put in place a well organized party. But where were Cognac producers? Harvest is finished, wine is fermenting and the distillation is not yet started. It was their promotion and they were absent!
25/10/99	Feu et Glace (Fire and Ice) is a new Cognac from Petite Champagne cru produced by Marie-Dominique Lugues of Graves St. Amant. It is her first product in a line of many more Cognacs that she plans to bring to the market slowly but surely. This 4 year old Cognac was developed with tender care and, if this is any indication than it is worth to wait for the next eaux-de-vie, as well. She is a member of all female Cognac producers association Castel Tonic.
23/10/99	From Famille Vallein Tercinier of Chermignac comes a stunning package on the theme of 20th century Cognac. The presentation and the products in the package cover years of 1897 to 2001 with 4 crus (Bons and Fins Bois, Petite and Grande Champagne) and 4 qualities (VS(), VSOP (Reserve), Napoleon and Fine Champagne XO*) offered. Lots of relevant details, lots of samples. Educational, commercial and most important a classy presentation of what Cognac is. Our tasting notes will be available in the next few days.
22/10/99	"Le Cognac en Fêtes !" will be presented by les Bouilleurs de Cru des Charentes at the Hall F at the Charles de Gaulle Airport in Paris from 28/10 to 3/11/99. The "Portes ouvertes - Open Gates" will be operational in the Charentes region on the 18, 19 and the 26 December 1999.
20/10/99	Château de Bouteville, a magnificent château overlooking prime vineyards in Grande Champagne was the background to the recent photo opportunity for the local politicians and dignitaries. The search for funds to restore this historical place is on, as it was for many years. With the current interest in it, there is a new hope. (Sud-Ouest19/10/99, Torula News)
19/10/99	Hennessy introduced Cognac Timeless, a blend of 11 eaux-de-vie from years of 1900 to 1990) in a special Baccarat carafe designed by Thomas Bastide to celebrate end of the century and the beginning of a new one. It is priced at F18000. "Light and elegant" were the first comments of some tasters. another said: "A Fillioux' piece d'resistance". A brilliant design, a great name and an innovative approach. No wonder Hennessy has nearly 50% of Cognac market, world-wide. With Timeless and Richard at one end of the product spectrum, XO and XO Grande Champagne in the center and the VS and the PureWhite at the other end, the company game plan to be a leader in all Cognac categories everywhere is close to fruition.(Sud-Ouest19/10/99, Charente Libre 19/10/99, Torula News)
19/10/99	Tax Free World exhibition opened yesterday in Cannes with over 7500 visitors representing 145 countries viewing products from 534 exhibitors. Recovering from the Asian crisis, the duty free market reached a number of milestones in 1998 of which $10 billion in sales in Europe was the most significant one. The impact of duty elimination on intra-EU trade in July of this year will be felt but its recovery is forecast over the next few years. Americas led the world with an increase of 5.3% where the USA registered 8.3% market share. Not surprisingly, UK led the world with 12.5% market share. Airport shopping, on-board shopping and the ferry, ships and the Eurotunnel were followed by the border, military bases and the city shopping places for the duty free products. Nearly 50% of all duty free shopping was done in Europe of which Heathrow airport (followed by Schipol in the Netherlands) registered a leading $725 million in sales closely followed by Scandiline of Norway and Germany DFO Vogelpluglinie ferries. Alcoholic beverages, tobacco, cosmetics and fragrances accounted for 60% of sales in the duty free. Alcohol beverages registered a drop of 5.1% in 1998. Top 3 products in duty free were cigarettes, women's fragrances and Scotch whisky. "My message to manufacturers and retailers is that now is the time to educate customers that there are still bargains to be made" said Yngve Bia, Managing Director of Generation DataBank, a Swedish based research group. (IHT19/10/99, Generation DataBank, Torula News)
19/10/99	Rémy Martin, lacking a bit in imagination has presented their Cognac Louis XIII in new clothes - "Celebrate Year 2000" at the Tax Free World Exhibition in Cannes. This special edition decanters (gold decorated, Baccarat, Florentine style) are limited to 2000 with buyers name to be engraved on the bottle. In a move that cheapens its effort and effect, Rémy Martin will also offer a miniature replica of the bottle that can be worn as a pendant to the buyer. The product is priced at US$2000.
19/10/99	Château Chesnel, producer of Cognac and Pineau des Charentes in the Borderies cru has changed hands but the main property will continue to belong to family de Rouffignac. The new group is led by an oenologue from Cognac, Jean-Claude Churlaud. Like rising Phoenix from the bankruptcy ashes, Château Chesnel has to concentrate on quality, smaller product line and more aggressive and personal marketing in selective international markets. A great Cognac name that was always under utilized. (Sud-Ouest19/10/99, Torula News)
18/10/99	As featured in LET'S GO FRANCE and THE BERKELEY GUIDE, Hotel St. Martin offers good value accommodation and a daily changing menu in the restaurant and it takes reservations via the Internet. Its web page is hosted on www.swfrance.com.
18/10/99	The past week saw all eyes and ears focused on the Internet gathering in Geneva for the 1999 Telecoms meeting. Putting aside Gates vs. Ellison diatribes, the world of Internet/Telecoms is booming with more facilities, lower pricing on the near horizon. Jini will wire our homes, PCs will be around but cell phones led by Nokia will be come our palmtops in a very near future. Forrester Research published a report on the factors driving repeat visitors to web sites. Key reasons are: 75% high quality content, 66% ease of use, 58% quick download and 54% updated frequently. Majority of Cognac web sites have a long way to go to meet those criteria; last updates of 9 months ago, slow downloads because of heavy use of Java, poor and repetitious content etc. (IHT14/10/99,Torula News)
15/10/99	Another academic year began at the Université Internationale des eaux-de-vie et boissons spiritueuses in Segonzac. This year's enrollment climbed to 11 students from 8 last year but down on 14 previous year. At the same time, local politicians began "a football (soccer) game" involving this 10 years old establishments which was always under-funded, always ignored. For the winners and the losers in this game check Torula News in mid-November.
14/10/99	Pernod-Ricard, a parent of Cognac Bisquit, reported lower than expected increased profits by 2.4% equal to US$85.9 million. Higher taxes and costs at the Cognac Bisquit eroded gains made by its whisky and wine business. Universal Pictures owned by Seagram, a parent of Cognac Martell, reported a blockbuster summer pushing the rumors of Universal sale on the backburner. Same, however can not be said for Cognac Martell, with persistent rumors surfacing of Seagram putting it up for sale. (IHT12/10/99, Torula News)
14/10/99	With grape harvest coming slowly to an end in the Cognac region, BNIC struggles to come up with an re-organization plan. As we wrote before and repeat here again, BNIC objective should be to lower its staff to 50 from nearly 90+, outsource all computing to EDS, Bull or IBM (they do it cheaper and more efficiently), outsource Station Viticole activities to a private enterprise, re-focus their Communication department (from inward looking, i.e. France only, to global communication) and triple their budget. Lobby French government to ease, even on the temporary basis, producers tax burden, eliminate 50% of rules, forms and other bureaucratic activities that burden the cognac producers' life. Free Bernard Guionnet, their President, to act as he was running a private enterprise and not a semi-government institution. Concentrate on promoting Cognac world-wide and its quality! Act now even if BNIC is 2-3 years late. A word for the viticulteurs unions; concentrate your energies on selling and promoting the product and on producing quality. And that goes for MODEF, too. The Cognac industry salvation is to recover its world-wide market share, otherwise sales of below 100 million bottles (from 134.8 million in 1998) per year are not that far away.
13/10/99	In this paradise country of beaches, Mate and 3.2 million Uruguayan people, Cognac is just a distant memory. And yet, as we were told by numerous store, bar and restaurant owners, this was a Cognac drinking country in the 20th, in the 30th, in the 50th and through the 80s. Best-selling brandy is named Cognac Juanico (more on it later) selling some 15,000 bottles per year. Until 2 years ago, ANCAP, producers and sellers of Cognac Juanico was a monopoly and producer of Pineau Juanico as well. Pineau Juanico is no longer produced due to lack of sales. Whisky (a leader is Mac Pay special whisky that sells about 500,000 bottles a year) and caña dominates the Uruguayan spirits market. But, surprisingly Cognac is not forgotten. You can still find Camus, Brugerolle, Gaston de la Grange, John Exshaw, Martell, Dubouchet (a Bisquit product of yesteryear), Courvoisier and Rémy Martin products at very attractive prices. As all the roads in Montevideo lead to Palacio Salbo where in 1917 Tango La Cumparcita was born at the tea room "La Chiraldo", we were told by a witness that in those days they celebrated with Cognac from France. A tiny market with nostalgia for Cognac.
13/10/99	The wide streets of Buenos Aires reminded us of Madrid, so it was not a surprise that brandy (coñac) is the preferred drink. And yet, with Renaults and Peugeots on streets, Carrefours dominating supermarkets and often heard French on the streets, Cognac is available in the stores. You can find Camus, Rémy Martin, Polignac and even Pineau des Charentes from Reynac in the stores and bars. If they just dropped the habit of warming (with hot water) the glass before serving Cognac or brandy!. A small market worth cultivating as the luxury items are in fashion and the recession is bottoming out. In the duty free store on the super fast ferry boat between downtowns of Buenos Aires and Montevideo you can purchase Hennessy, Rémy Martin and Courvoisier products.
11/10/99	3rd edition of Nuit du Cognac (Cognac Night) is scheduled for 30 October in Segonzac. Pierre Forgeron and his young team has been working to better their previous successes (400 participants in the 1st year and 900 the second year). Another example of hard work and the right idea working for the Cognac promotion. Maybe, the time has come to take this concept on the road; Paris, London, New York, Sydney, Buenos Aires. How about it, BNIC?
09/10/99	Recent changes at Courvoisier include senior management dismissals, new and lower purchasing contracts with viticulteurs and an ongoing 'blaming Asian crisis' for the sad state of the Cognac affairs. Of all major Cognac brands, Courvoisier was the least exposed to the Asian crisis of the past. Either the accountants in Bristol (AlliedDomecq, the parent of Courvoisier is headquartered there) or the local managers in Jarnac (Courvoisier headquarters) are misinformed or they believe in fairy tales. Lack of advertising, poor promotions and general lack of understanding of the ever changing global spirits markets is the reason for lower sales at Courvoisier. Following in the steps of Cognac Gautier (see our September item), Courvoisier decided not to replace their dismissed Commercial Director. That is too little, too late and shows lack of a recovery game plan. How about an aggressive, global advertising campaign, how about resurrecting the Erte series (one of the most popular Cognac auction items), how about re-doing packaging for VS and VSOP at least and so on. But blaming Asian crises just does not blend! (Sud-Ouest09/10/99, Torula News)
09/10/99	Recently we wrote about implications of the current wave of mergers among the supermarket chains in France and elsewhere. Simply put, we believe that the battle for shelves space will be won by products with the strongest advertising, service and the best pricing. Especially, the pricing. With Wal-Mart (the largest world-wide supermarket) arrival in Germany and England, who are master marketers and pricing specialists, Cognac producers must take a notice and act immidiately. Thus the recent words of Frédéric Delesque, International Marketing Director at Cognac Rémy Martin are more than welcomed. The man is on a right track. The wisdom of attacking whisky, which is predominant everywhere, has yet to be proven but taking an offensive is absolutely right; advertise, promote, adjust pricing (lower VS, VSOP prices, increase XO and up), apply consumer logic to pricing (VS lowest price, VSOP higher, than XO etc.), do lots of in-store tastings. Bring new products as in the case of RémyRed which is available in the USA with street posters and sharp packaging, get Trek out of the duty free stores and, of course, develop new products which would be VS based - RémyOJ in time for spring 2000 (see our recent item on Cognac in new York). No wonder RémyCointerau stock is above F19 a share and the man did not even mentioned Asian crisis (see news item above). (Sud-Ouest 09/10/99, Torula News)
07/10/99	Once again tourists are coming to the City of Cognac proving that with imagination, new offerings and changed attitudes you can generate an interest in the city. Michel Goubard, Director of the Office de Tourisme in Cognac, and his team had a successful summer with visitors split 60-40 between French and foreigners. English visitors led the foreign contingent. With a bit of expansion (i.e. more foreign language tours and advertising, more associations with Cognac houses of all sizes, more advertising in other countries, an independent Internet presence, higher frequency of Cognac by Night tour) next year should be even better. That, of course, will benefit commerce in the city and the state of the Cognac industry in general. Job well done.
06/10/99	Due to technical difficulties at our ISP (Internet Service Provider) MSN in Manhattan, N.Y., we were unable to provide regular updates to Torula News. We apologize for this inconvenience.
04/10/99	*Cognac, an independent guide to the people, the product and the region* is now available in New York at Kitchen Arts&Letters, a bookstore specializing in books on food, wine and spirits, at 1435 Lexington Avenue. For additional locations in New York click here.
04/10/99	Grand Manier is a sponsor of the current New York Film Festival. The Cognac Bureau (a.k.a. BNIC) known preference for the involvement with film festivals (i.e.Thrillers in Cognac, Science Fiction in Murioka, Japan) is not evident here. It is surprising that such a great promotional opportunity is continuously being ignored while obscured and irrelevant Film Festivals are sponsored or participated in. So, what movie going New Yorkers are exposed to is a brand name promotion of a product based on Cognac. That's good but it could've been better - just imagine this: "Sponsored by producers of Cognac" or "Cognac, a product of wine presents" or "Sponsored by Grande Crus of Cognac" or "Cognac, it goes well with Orange Juice". Many New Yorkers that we asked at one screening did not know that Grand Manier is based on Cognac. Another opportunity lost.
02/10/99	Timing (25 October - the busiest period for sellers of wine&spirits), theme (cocktails with Cognac, Cognac for women) and the location (Lot 61 - posh hang out for headline seekers in the local gossip columns) are the problem. Timing, as everyone in the trade will tell you, for such events should be the February to May period. The theme is good but than why no Josephine, no Madame or Valentine among the Cognacs scheduled to appear at Lot 61?. Americans are the biggest drinkers of Orange Juice (OJ) and the Sunday Brunch is the main event during which Bloody Mary (that's vodka) and Margaritas (that's Tequila) rule. Why, than no CognacOJ or CognacTropicana? The inward looking Cognac Bureau (misdirected by the BNIC Communications Committee made of some 20 Cognac producers) obsessed with CognacTonic promotions in France has yet to find this out. All they need to do is to talk to Cognac sellers and buyers on the streets of New York. Torula News will be there and will bring you details of this event.
02/10/99	Enthusiasm and willingness to help the Cognac industry is there. The direction on how to and the product knowledge is not. Both Sopexa (Food and Wines from France, Inc.) and the French Embassy Trade Office are staffed with eager and able people. And yet, the results are neither visible nor significant. Following the Cognac Bureau (a.k.a. BNIC) directions, Sopexa assists in getting 10-12 journalists to visit Cognac each year. They, also, help organizing an annual event to promote Cognac. Last year's event, according to a journalist who attended, had a low turned out and this year it promises to be even worst. Timing, theme and location are the problem. By end of November, Trade Office will publish its Le Marché des Brandies et du Cognac aux Etats-Unis Cognac report. How many Cognac producers know of it? It is surprising that neither the Cognac Bureau nor the the producers are taking full advantage of this willing and able resources in New York.
01/10/99	At the Sherry-Lehman store they carry an impressive selection of Hennessy, Rémy Martin, Delamain, Courvoisier, Martell, Marcel Ragnaud, Gaston Briand, Jean Danflou Fine Champagne, Audry Fine Champagne XO, Château Fontpinot and Kelt. The salesman would like to expand this range by adding A. E. Dor, A. de Fussigny and Gabriel&Andreu but has the problem convincing his buyer. "You know, people are asking for those products but our Cognac turn over is not what it used to be." he said with a note of regret in his voice. They carry Manier Pineau des Charentes as well. In their new location at the Rockefeller Plaza, Morrell&Company sells Léopold Gourmel, Hennessy, Jean Fillioux, Courvoisier, Rémy Martin, L&L, Delamain, Hine, Prunier and Davidoff. "Our sales are constant with VSOP and XO being most popular qualities. Customers here depend on our sales staff knowledge" said the store manager. Shortly, next door, Morrell&Company will open The Morrell Wine Bar & Cafe with a motto of: "A place to dine * The place for wine". Great idea and a great opportunity for Cognac tastings!
01/10/99	The salesman at the Sea Grape Wine Shop (Greenwich Village) which carries Pierre Ferrand, Hennessy, Jean Fillioux, Courvoisier, Rémy Martin, Planat and Balzac said: "Good time to make a push for Cognac, interest in spirits is high in the City". They also carry Pierre Ferrand Pineau des Charentes. At the Castle Wine&Spirits (Greenwich Village, West side) the owner spoke forcefully about Cognac: "We try hard to sell it but the producers seem to ride on the past glory and show very little interest. Oh, except for Alain Royer of A. de Fussigny." The shop carries Delamain, Pierre Ferrand, Gautier, Martell, Courvoisier, Rémy Martin, Prunier, Davidoff, A. de Fussigny and Fransac. At Acorn (Restaurant Row street) they carry Martell, Courvoisier, Hennessy and Rémy Martin VS Grand Cru. We watched a couple buying Cognac. The man said: "Honey, lets get a bottle of Hennessy VS." The lady replied: "I like the name of Rémy Martin VS Grand Cru better." "Oh heck, lets get a bottle of something classy" he replied. The couple bought Hennessy XO. The West 57 Wine&Spirits shop at Parc Vendôme is run by 2 knowledgeable men, Mr.Choi & Mr.Chu. They offer Rémy Martin, Martell, Landy, Courvoisier, Hardy, Camus, Moyet, Quien Vieille Fine Champagne XO, Gabriel&Andreu, Chabanneau, A de Fussigny and Chalfonte. They would like to carry more smaller producers and we quickly asked why. "Our customers are always searching for new, high quality products. They want to try new and different products but we get no information." The aggravated and frustrated Manager of the Columbus Liquors store responded to our question about the state of Cognac:"A dying category of spirits, none really sells well, it is very price sensitive and the importers and producers ignore us and our customers." And yet the store carries Gautier, Davidoff, Delamain, Camus, Rémy Martin, Hennessy, Quien, Godet, Gabriel&Andreu, Pierre Ferrand, Courvoisier. They also sell Rémy Martin Red and Pineaux of Reynac and Pierre Ferrand. On the shelves with Pierre Ferrand Cognacs there were yellow stickers quoting tasting notes from various sources. The only such promotions that we saw in New York. On the shelves of the West 8th Liquors store we spotted Brugerolle Fine Champagne bottles (at $99.99) among Hennessy and Rémy Martin. In this small shop, we saw 3 young men buying 4 bottles of Hennessy VS and discussing its merits. "Yo men, its good stuff. I tried with some ice last night. It was cool, man. Even my woman got into it."
01/10/99	Revival of Bob Fosse, famous choreographer and movie director, work is in full swing on Broadway with 3 Fosse classics playing to sold out audiences and a great retrospective musical called Fosse is the hit of the season. Even at $80 a ticket. The same cannot be said about Cognac in New York City (NYC). Our objective was to visit as many Cognac (liquor) shops, restaurants and bars as possible, to get an idea about the state of Cognac in NYC. We choose NYC because it is the gateway city into the USA, the safest city in the USA (courtesy of the Mayor Gulliani) and "closest" to Europe, at least in the sense of fashions and tastes. And more importantly, it is the city of wealth, over 5000 restaurants and nearly 6 million consumers who during weekdays shop in Manhattan. There are plenty of McDos (French for McDonald's) but, at the same time, it is the city of connoisseurs, refined tastes and people searching for alternative pleasures. Michael Goldstein of Park Avenue Liquor Shop said: "Please note, that while we are talking about Cognac, this lady just purchased $10,000 worth of Bordeaux wines. Just 4 cases.". During the last 3 days of September, Torula News talked to the liquor store owners, sales people and their customers, bartenders and sommeliers, local journalists and French officials involved with promoting Cognac and Pineau des Charentes. And the conclusions are that Cognac is not doing well (no Asian crisis excuse, here), the Pineau (PdC) is all but forgotten (and yet, paradoxically the demand for it is here), the feeble attempts of the Cognac Bureau (that is the American name of BNIC or as one store owner said: "Sounds like KGB of the past, can't they come up with a better name?"), producers are all but invisible with exceptions of Alain Royer (Cognac A. de Fussigny), Olivier Blanc (Cognac Léopold Gourmel), Benedicte Hardy (Cognac Hardy), Dominique Hediard-Dubreuil (Cognac Rémy Martin) and a saleswoman working for the importer of Cognac Gabriel&Andreu and Pierre Ferrand. On the other hand, Bordeaux wine makers, Champagne and Calvados producers flog to NYC en masse and on a regular basis. No wonder their products are selling in record volumes. At the Sherry-Lehman store (an influential Upper East side store with an impressive selection of Cognacs), Mihail, the salesman said: "Who advertise, sells". Ain't that the truth! So, who sells well in NYC? Based on our informal and unscientific survey, Hennessy and Rémy Martin closely followed by Courvoisier among the big houses. A. de Fussigny, Léopold Gourmel, Fillioux Gabriel&Andrew, Pierre Ferrand, Hardy and on the strength of the past promotional activities Hine, Davidoff and Delamain. And finally, Cognac importers are passive and with a few exceptions do very little for their product. In part, the problem is that the producers are neither cooperating (i.e. advertising and promotions) nor do they apply any pressure (follow ups, tastings, promotional samples) on their importers. Selling is a team effort!
	Torula News Archive for: 1999:September August July June May April March February January 1998 Torula News logo courtesy of Marie Claire Pajeile.

Cognac	Pineau des Charentes	Armagnac	Brandy
Buy on Internet	Vin de Pays Charentais	Hotel Restaurants	Tourism
www.swfrance.com	www.cognacnet.com	C20 May 2001 Copyright © 2000 Lusina ISG, Inc.	Torula News