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Torula News

a news service for Cognac and the region

November 1999

30/11/99 The numbers of invited guests have dwindled to below 100 and the number of graduating students was in low teens at the XIIth graduation ceremony at the Université Internationale des Eaux-de-Vie & Boissons Spiritueuses in Segonzac, confirming the recent troubles and the uncertain future of this institution. When after 30 minutes delay (that is late even by the Charentaise standard 15 minutes) the somber proceedings got underway under the leadership of the current President, François Melin. Normally such an occasion calls for optimism, smiles and even occasional laughter. This ceremony was all but that. It competed with most of the somber funerals. When François Melin explained in his opening remarks that due to financial difficulties the University is being transferred to another one in Couronne no one really believed this to be the real reason. The weak applause not only confirmed this but it questioned his leadership. He, also, managed to pronounce the word Internet twice showing how up-to-date he is but clearly that was not enough for the skeptical audience. Elisabeth,an assistant at the University, taught herself HTML in her spare time to build web pages for the University while the University refused to fund its presence on the web. And yet, it was only a week ago that the French Minister of Education Allegre was criticizing American universities for putting their bottom line ahead of education. Somehow the Education Minister and the University President see it differently. The University of Segonzac, founded 10 years ago was a good idea that went for years under financed, under marketed, practically ignored but serving best it could with a meager but dedicated staff of two. In the last 3 years, we have seen not a one attempt by its President to offer leadership at any level. So, when the political configuration in Charente changed, the University was put in play and lost it. The loss is also a community loss where the University generously donated its time and the staff of 2. With students varying from 8 to 14 in the past 3 years no one reacted, no one invested thus the end was predictable. The current President of the Charente Conseil Regional government noted in his remarks that he expects several foreign students(i.e. from China) to enroll. Time will tell. Two official speakers, Denis Rochard from University of Poitiers and Jean-Marc Giradeau of the BNIC concentrated their somber speeches on legislation's, protectionism (Anglo-Saxon brand system vs. French AOC system) inspiring very little interest among graduated and current students. Where was the talk of markets, entrepreneurship, opportunities even the product history - things that a newly graduate would want to hear. We set in disbelief awaiting for the imaginary New Orleans' Olympia Jazz Band to break into an up tempo music of celebration, future and optimism. But it was not to be. Even the CognacTonics generously offered by L&L could not lift the somber tone of this event.
29/11/99 Persistence pays off as in the case of Pascal Millasseau and his team at the Association des Bouilleurs de Cru de l'Appellation Cognac. They helped to convince one of the largest supermarkets in Charente, Géant, to promote Cognac and Pineau des Charentes. Géant has printed 80,000 promotional brochures "Les Crus Charentais en Fête" to promote Cognac and offering aggressive pricing between 1 and 11 December 1999 at their flagship store in Angoulême. Tarin, Jasserie, Jules Gautret, Pierre Brisson, Leyrat, Roi des Rois, Pavois, Camus, Rémy Martin, Martell, Hennessy and Bisquit are among the products listed in this promotion. 
29/11/99 The competitiveness of the Comité National du Pineau des Charentes was clearly visible  during their well organized presence at the Gastronomades99. Why not do it with the BNIC and Vin de Pays Charentais Group - a joint effort that could save a few centimes? Or is the time now to start talking of merging those organizations? Finally, Pineau des Charentes is a very good pre-mixed Cognac Cocktail.
29/11/99 The fifth edition of Gastronomades99 held in Angoulême last weekend was a resounding success for the Cognac industry. Largely due to the efforts of Pascal Millasseau and his team at the Association des Bouilleurs de Cru de l'Appellation Cognac and with the assistance of the Communication Department of the BNIC, Cognac industry was the center piece of this festival of tastes and the regional products, presenting all stages of Cognac development. All elements were there: nursery (so well explained by Didier Jallet), distilling (Christophe Brusseau and Eric Gauche under the ever watchful eye of the ever present Pascal Millasseau showed their passion and commitment), Tower of Cognac with many products (run efficiently by François Méry and his team of Young Viticulteurs) to sample, tasting organized by the embattled Université Internationale des Eaux-de-Vie & Boissons Spiritueuses was fun and of high quality (only old XO Cognacs). Francis Audemard, famous courtier from Cognac, presented first results of distillation of 1999. Cooperage and the Saturday fun with the barrels was also there. All in one place, at the Angoulême City Hall. Elsewhere, we spotted Claude Audebert, Chailloux, Domaine de la Font de Bussac, Phillippon, Painturaud, Rémi Landier among Cognac producers offering their products. The challenge now is to take this act on the road in France and beyond. 
25/11/99 In their family there were and still are potters, soldiers, historians, writers, actors; men of Renaissance or as they prefer to be known; humanists. They are proud traditionalists but in tune with today. And they make Cognac since 1824 in the warehouses (chais) among the quaint streets of the old Jarnac at the river Charente. We visited recently the house of Delamain. Although Alain Braastad was absent nursing his health at home, his son Charles, Patrick Peyrelongue and their maître d'chai Dominique Touteau ably shared with us their philosophy - only Grande Champagne, only the best, only reducing with "weak (faibles) brandies - 15% vol.), and their hospitality. But it is when we got to tasting that the flow of conversation quicken, opinions were shared and only time prevented all of us from going on and on. We did try Pale&Dry XO, Vesper, Très Venérable and Réserve de la Famille. And, of course, their vintages (millésime) of 1950, 1959, 1963 and 1968 as they are unquestionable, the most experienced producers in the field of Cognac vintages, today. We scored 2 vintages at 10 out of 10 (1959, 1963) and our perennial favorite Réserve de la Famille at 10 out of 10. The point needs to be made; all Delamain Cognacs are of highest quality proudly and justifiably representing the best of the product. (Details on the tastings will be available in a couple of days on the Cognac Tasting Society web pages). The real surprise, however, awaited us when we read "The Delamain approach to cognac" notes that were given to us. Informative, well written and entertaining - exactly how a promotion material should be written for Cognac. And finally, Delamain, like many other Cognac houses, is in the midst of bringing the new generation to the forefront. Charles Braastad is beginning to fill the ever so large shoes of Alain, with poise and confidence. The future for this Cognac house appears to be assured. We wish Alain a speedy recovery and are already looking forward to the next visit.
25/11/99 You doubt, you laugh, you dismiss it out of hand but DigiScent is here! Dexeter Smith and Joel Lloyd Bellenson are founders of DigiScents, California, have created iSmell product. One of the founders explains: "Taste is 95 percent aroma. Your tongue can only detect sweet, sour, bitter, and salty, plus the sensation you get from MSG. All other tastes are a function of the nose." What you need is a computer-controlled device (DigiScent) on your desktop, courageous and forward thinking producers to participate and we could have an Internet based Cognac tasting (aromas only but as the founder says it is 95% of tasting). Far reaching maybe, but with $10 million investment, DigiScent maybe on the way to create yet another business opportunity on the Internet.(Charles Platt, Wired November1999 p.257+)
24/11/99 In a recent review of the luxury goods market titled "Living the High Life", John Tagliaube of the New York Times Service quotes Michel Legros, a money manager at Merrill Lynch Mercury Assets Management in London,"that although LVMH (a parent of Hennessy) had cut costs at many of its businesses, its apparel and Hennessy Cognac divisions could benefit from efficiency drives." Christophe Navarre's challenge continues. (IHT22/11/99)
24/11/99 Cognac, an independent guide to the people, the product and the region is now available in the Netherlands at the Wijnboekhandel, Spiegeigracht 19, 1017 JP Amsterdam.
23/11/99 He started it in 1979 using his best vines of Sémillon (80%) and Sauvignon (20%). He kept it in small oak barrels maturing for 20 years in his old chais "Trotte Laquais". He bottled only 2000 in antique glass, each numbered, each signed. The genius of Christian Thomas is evident in this Cuvée du Millénaire Château du Beaulon Vieux Pineau des Charentes 20 ans d'age. Click to view the bottle.
23/11/99 Jean-Marc Olivier, a master blender since 1984 at Cognac Courvoisier said: "It was a great challenge to achieve the perfect balance and harmony between the various aged cognacs I utilized in crafting L'Esprit de Courvoisier. It is indeed a historical masterpiece. It is complex and full bodied, yet possess a refined elegance and a remarkable smoothness and character that, I believe, sets it apart from all other cognacs. To sip L'Esprit de Courvoisier is truly to relive history". L'Esprit is packaged in a hand-made Lalique crystal carafe and contains eaux-de-vie no younger than the 1929. It will be available as of January 2000 at $4000-$6000 per bottle. Torula News team has not yet tasted this ambitious product. (Evins Communications)
22/11/99 The largest independent Cognac house in France, Camus is experiencing a well deserved, if late, renaissance. In part, we are witnessing results of Jean-Paul Camus (a hands-on owner) carefully crafted plan of bringing his sons into the forefront of the business. Cognac Neon is positioned as a special blend to mix long drinks and cocktails. With its stunning packaging and clever promotion material, Cyril Camus, the son responsible for marketing, set the tone for the future company products. We tried his favorite long drink, Neon After Dark (Cognac Neon, coca cola, touch of lime juice and lots of ice) and liked it. While the company continues its success with various airlines duty free sales especially in Asia (i.e. Mandarin Airlines, Air Lanka) it also works hard in other markets, especially in the USA. Its millennium product, Jubilee Camus Cognac, is a blend of 1911 Grande Champagne (20%) and Borderies (80%) of at least 40 years of age, packaged in a very distinctive, eye catching carafe. Camus future seems assured in the Jean-Paul Camus's children hands.
22/11/99 Torula News extracts are now available in German language at www.calvados.de
22/11/99 Samalens Armagnac recently introduced Millennium 1900 Armagnac from Bas Armagnac.Together with the rounded carafe comes a book describing the history of the family and Armagnac. A well though out, distinctive package.
20/11/99 Sporting an eye catching silver colored label, Martell VSOP 2000 enters an already crowded Cognac 2000 world-wide market.
19/11/99 The Musée de la Publicite opened yesterday in Paris (a part of Grand Louvre) - very modern, very impressive with some 10.000 posters and 4000 films in their data banks available to the public. We had a quick look but found very few posters about Cognac. And yet the Cognac industry over the years have produced some spectacular poster art. Just visit Paul Ronne collection. As the BNIC continues to ignore Paul Ronne collection, here was yet, another opportunity to promote Cognac.
18/11/99 Next step in the Cognac Hardy saga is to re-start the process all over but with a new local twist added. CCG, a company created by Michel Coste and now run by his son Philippe has entered bidding. CCG is the maker of Meukow, Brugerolle and other Cognacs and brandies with a turnover of about F200 million. This new twist is viewed as a preventive measure to stop Hardy going to the highest original bidder KCP. KCP is viewed as an Anglo-Saxon (quote from the local press) company run by an American from London and representing the French insurance pension funds of AGF among other partners and investors. Free trade, best value for shareholders are expressions not yet accepted by the locals in the Cognac industry. New decision is expected at the end of January 2000. The damage to the Cognac Hardy business made by this politically motivated delays and manipulations is almost beyond repair.
17/11/99 Swedish monopoly Vin&Spirit AB catalogue expands its offerings just in time for Holiday shopping. They include; several Cognacs from A. E. Dor, Tiffon, Château de Beaulon, Grönstedts 1973 vintage, Jean Fillioux, Paul Giraud, Delamain,  A. de Fussigny XO Grande Champagne, Renault Bisquit Hors d'Age and Hennessy Izambard. In total, they offer over 130 Cognacs.
16/11/99 Check the Richardson's Wine Auction (david@erauctions.com.au or www.erauctions.com.au) in Australia where on Saturday December 4th 1999 at 10am they will auction lots of Australian wines, champagne and Cognac. Bids are accepted by email, fax & live.
15/11/99 Good Morning Paris covers Torula News' Cognac Y2K Design Awards. Check at www.goodmorningparis.com/fizzf.html
15/11/99 Cognac Hine, part of Hennessy, restructures and layoffs number of employees. When the group shows positive returns it is the right time to tighten the ship. Remember Michelin? (Sud-Ouest13/11/99)
15/11/99 "Appropriately complex" is a new promotional slogan used by Hennessy to promote their products in the USA. It is not complex at all for BNIC to generate a simple generic campaign for Cognac, world-wide. Rather than having a 3-way conversations (Sud-Ouest (13/11/99), BNIC and Torula News) on the subject, putting down cyber-journalism (yes, it is here to stay!) and by the way, the views of Torula News are also recorded on paper - see our Guide to Cognac) it is better to concentrate on helping Cognac industry - it does not come from Film Festivals in Morioka or Cognac! If the press agency that works for BNIC concentrates on film industry than the time has come to select another agency. And so on, and so on ... (Sud-Ouest13/11/99, Torula News)
12/11/99 Top 2 sellers of Cognac in the USA are Hennessy with 50% of the market followed by Rémy Martin. Martell, which has not received much support in the last few years is already starting to change, according to Robert Bernstein, brand manager at Seagram (a parent of Martell). Martell has moved up to being a global priority brand for the company. He is also quotes as saying: "Cognac has the same value as other premium types. We're doing that by convincing consumers that VS makes a wonderful mixed drink. This will hopefully change the current perception among young adults that Cognac is harsh and hard to drink." At the same time, Martell is using a member of the family in the radio ad campaign to promote Martell's tradition of excellence through the centuries and at the same time reminding Cognac lovers of Cordon Bleu and other Martell labels. (NYBeverageJournal-Oct99)
12/11/99 In the October issue of New York and New Jersey Beverage Journal, Ron Kapon writes about brandy and Cognac under the title "Brandy is New Again". He identifies Hennessy (Single Distillery Cognacs, timeless, Hennessy Martini), Rémy Martin (Remy Red, VO Grand Cru, Louis XIII), Courvoisier (L'Espirit de Courvoisier, Millenium) and Martell (Étonné) as the representative Cognac houses in the American market. The article quotes Claire Coates, director of communications for the BNIC: "Our advertising creates a new product image stressing Cognac's versatility as an up-to-date trendy mixer to be used for cocktails and long drinks. The new Millennium provides an excellent opportunity to change Cognac's image in the minds of consumers and members of the trade alike; to smash the myths surrounding Cognac. ... what was unthinkable a few years ago, is now reality." In the same issues, the following Cognacs are listed: A. de Fussigny, Amedee, Ansac, Audry, Brillet, Calisinac, Cerbois, Chalfonte, Davidoff, Delamain, Dudognon, Elie-Arnaud, Jean Fillioux, Francet, Gabriel & Andreau, Gautier, Gaston de Lagrange, Gourry Chadeville, Guillot, Hardy, Hine, Jean Danflou, Jean Duree, Kelt, Landy, Leopold Gourmel, Louis Royer, Maison Decourtet, Marcel Ragnaud, Manier, Meukow, Montaigne, Otard, Paul Giraud, Pierre Ferrand, Prunier, Renault, RMS, Salignac and four Cognacs mentioned in the article.
08/11/99 A 100 whiskies full page advertising sponsored by Auchan, a French supermarket chain, flooded French newspapers last week. BNIC and its Communication Committee and Department continue to bury their heads in the sand and ignore basic fundamentals of promotions, marketing and PR. It is the second time in less than 6 months ("Les Grands Crus de Scotch" promotion) that whisky has taken the market attention away from Cognac. This time in France, where BNIC promotion money are being spend. In the meantime, BNIC continues its mindless global jet-setting from one diner to another. The Cognac industry needs a simple generic promotional campaign. Why is it so difficult for the BNIC to comprehend this?
06/11/99 Sharing the spotlight with Prix Medicis and Prix Femina at the Hotel Crillon in Paris, Torula News and its co-sponsors (Atlanpack, BNIC, Hotel Crillon, Restaurant La Cagouille, SIG Sandmark) awarded their Cognac Y2K Design Prizes to Cognac Gautier, Cognac Vallein Tercinier and Cognac Otard. Celebrations continued well into the night at the Restaurant La Caugouille. For winners presentations click here.
03/11/99 BAA, the airports operator, reported lower profits attributed to the end of EU duty free and the losses at the World Duty Free division, dominated by the American operations. (FT2/11/99)
03/11/99 The international fruit market begins an online trading via Internet under the name of FruitXchange as a part of www.worldoffruit.com  How soon will we see trading of grapes, grape juice and maybe even eaux-de-vie from Charentes online? (FT01/11/99, Torula News)
02/11/99 At the Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris, Terminal 2 Hall F, from where travelers leave for London, Geneva, Venice, Turin, Rome, Madrid, Amsterdam, Glasgow, Lisbon, Tokyo, Osaka, Cairo and other destinations, Les Bouilleurs de  Cru ("Le Cognac en Fêtes") under a tight supervision of the BNIC, presented their Alambic-Expo for the past 4 days. They answered hundreds of questions from "What's the best Cognac?" to detailed explanations of distilling process and aging. A well chosen, strategic location with great exposure for Cognac and its people. The only mystery was the display of several copies of Françoise Barbin-Lecrevisee book "Le cuisine de Cognac et du Pineau". This book identifies all of 4 Cognac producers!
02/11/99 Seagram, parent of Cognac Martell, sold its Australian wine and spirits business to Foster's Brewing Group. This deal includes distribution of Seagram brands (i.e. Cognac Martell) in Australia. (FT02/11/99)
01/11/99 In a dramatic but needed turn, most of the Cognac big houses boutiques have changed their pricing for products on sale on their premises. They sell them at the Duty Free (or there about) prices including, of course, local taxes. So, at Hennessy you can buy XO Grande Champagne at F670 or timeless at F13800 or Pure White at F109. Same pricing strategy we noticed at the Rémy Martin shop. This long overdue change will benefit consumers who visit, get interest it and then realized that the product price was out of their budget. With visitors numbers increasing substantially this year in Cognac, this change will positively impact their bottom line. There is a lesson in it for the smaller Cognac producers who are adverse to price changes to the detriment of their own bottom line.
01/11/99 The assignment was simple; use the house tradition and show the company's future. Use the skills of Yann Fillioux to blend, Thomas Bastide of Baccarat to design packaging, get Jade Agency from Cognac to participate and get the best out of Christophe Navarre and Gilles Hennessy know-how, to create a timeless product. Give this assignment to young product managers (Catherine Sandillon and Patrick Morley-Fletcher), set the price of US$3000, limit the production to 2000 bottles and watch what happens. Simply said; they all delivered. Hennessy timeless is a blend of 11 eaux-de-vie from Grande and Petite Champagne, from 1900, 1918, 1929, 1939, 1947, 1953, 1959, 1961, 1970, 1983 and 1990 years. It has a big floral nose, with a solid presence of rancio. On the palate, at 43.5º, hints of spice evolve into a round, fabulously rich taste that lingers long, very long. For this taster, a 10 out 10. A magical Cognac. Pebble like decanter of clear lines and eye catching shape is placed in a metal casing reminding us of LVMH (a parent of Cognac Hennessy) modern, glass and metal building in New York. The current exhibition at Hennessy presents a design evolution of this decanter and the product. This marvel is available world-wide except Duty Free. It comes with a book that defines the product (a man, a story, a symbol and a reference chapters), it is numbered and offers the buyer visit to Bagnolet.The day after introduction a local man from Cognac bought the first timeless. That in itself is a sign of  this product success. With this product, Christophe Navarre, President of Hennessy, clearly round it the company product line (XO Grande Champagne, Pure White, timeless) on his watch. And there is still more to come. So, how about a product that retains Cognac's classy image but in a package that does not use crystal, that does not reminds us of perfumes or the glass/metal buildings?
01/11/99 Among the pumpkins and special Halloween (Samhrin) cocktails at Hennessy's boutique, Rémy Martin last visitor tour of this century that offered pumpkin pie, bourrou and a rushed commentary, Pierre Forgeron' La Nuit du Cognac recorded another success with over 800 people of various ages celebrating well into the early morning hours. For the 3rd year running, Pierre and his team of young viticulteurs showed what can be done in the region to promote Cognac. They offered some 45 different products and 30+ Cognac based cocktails catering to all tastes. Even the music was cleverly offered in two halls (from the 60s in old Martell distillery and the techno in the other hall).
01/11/99 Swedish publisher ICA bokfölag published recently a hard cover book; Cognac, Armagnac & Brandy by Urban Laurin in Swedish. With many illustrations and lots of data it contains many useful references, though not always up-to-date) including a very general products ratings. Among the top rated Cognac products (98 points or more out of 100) were: Bisquit' Privilège d'Alexandre Bisquit (98 points), Daniel Bouju' Très Vieux Brut de Fût Grande Champagne (99 points), Brillet' 1er Cru Single Grande Réserve Grande Champagne (98 points), Château de Beaulon' Très Vieille Réserve du Château (98 points) and Rare (98 points), Delamain' Réserve de la Famille Grande Champagne (100 points), and Très Vénérable Grande Champagne (98 points), A. E. Dor' Hors d'Age No. 9 Grande Champagne (100 points) and Hors d'age No. 8 Grande Champagne (99 points), Claudine&Raymond Dudognon' Réserve d'Ancêtre (97-100 points), Maison Pierre Ferrand (Gabriel&Andreu)' Réserve Ancestrale (100 points), Abel (100 points) and Aigle Cristal (98 points), Jean Fillioux' Réserve Familliale (98 points), Alain de Fussigny' Grande Champagne Séries Très Rares (100 points), Paul Giraud' Très Rare (99 points), Leopold Gourmel' L'Age des Fleurs (98 points), Lafite-Rotschild' Très Vieille Réserve (98 points), Laurent Merlin' Hors Pair (98 points), Moyet' Fine Champagne XO (98 points) and Ragnaud-Sabourin / Marcel Ragnaud' Héritage (99 points). Among Armagnacs, products from Marcel Trépout scored the highest. Among the American brandy Germain-Robin scored highest, Martell's De Valcourt led in the French brandy category and Bolpaas led South African brandies.
01/11/99 Allied Domecq, a parent of Cognac Courvoisier, has denied expectations of imminent deals in the spirits sector involving the company. Allied Domecq managed to achieve tiny .5% drinks revenue increase leaving it far behind double digit growth registered by Seagram (parent of Cognac Martell) and RémyCointreau, parent of Cognac Rémy Martin. Among the frequently mentioned deals was a buy-out/merger with Pernod-Ricard group, a parent of Cognac Bisquit. And yet, the spirits industry is tipped for further consolidations. Its share performance on the London Stock Exchange was very aggressive led by Heineken and Diageo shares in the past few days. (FT27/10/99)
01/11/99 Bloomberg News reported last week that the confidence among French manufacturing executives rose strongly in October, signaling faster economic growth in the world's fourth largest economy, based on the data from the French National Statistics Office. Will the Cognac industry follow this trend? (IHT29/10/99)

Torula News Archive for: 1999: October September August July June  May April March February January    1998         Torula News logo courtesy of Marie Claire Pajeile.

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